Thanks Steve, glad you like it!

Just an idea as thris thread sank already on page 2    and I think it should not fall into oblivion.

Couldn't we make it a sticky?

It certainly deserves to be a sticky, as it is a valuable reference source. I'll ask admin, as I'm not sure whether I am able to do it.   

Just spent 10 minutes looking for this thread!

Cheers guys at the top for making this a sticky   

Great up dates Pat, much appreciated   

I've added hyperlinks for both Admiral Ackbar & the Tie Pilot   

*Added*

Biker Scout

Sorry for this double post ...

Great Biker Scout update Alex, much appreciated.   

Just posted my own update while you posted   

Thanks for adding hyperlinks to my sheets. Here's the next one:   

*Added*

Squid Head

Done!

Link added for Squid Head Pat    sorry though I can't offer any help there as I don't have a LL Squid.

Hopefully some others will chime in   

Hi Patrick, my LL Burgundy Squid has a similar sprue break on top of the head. It also appears to have the two bumps on the toe of the figures left foot. I can't check the other details as the figure is sealed in a case. When I can get to it, I'll check my loose MIM version.

pat, i'll do my best to dig my two LL squidies out tomorrow for you

General Kahn wrote:

Done!

Link added for Squid Head Pat    sorry though I can't offer any help there as I don't have a LL Squid.

Hopefully some others will chime in  

Thanks Alex!   

cantina_patron wrote:

Hi Patrick, my LL Burgundy Squid has a similar sprue break on top of the head. It also appears to have the two bumps on the toe of the figures left foot. I can't check the other details as the figure is sealed in a case. When I can get to it, I'll check my loose MIM version.

Thanks for checking up Steve, sounds good so far.   

walkie wrote:

pat, i'll do my best to dig my two LL squidies out tomorrow for you

That would be great Stef, thanks.  

I've looked at my MIM Squid.

The head has a small sprue break (none of my 6 kenner ones has this feature).





As you have observed Patrick, the detail on the boots is not as defined as the Kenner examples. The bumps on the toes are different on mine, but they are there. None of my Kenner examples have this imperfection.

Sorry about the picture quality, but hopefully you can see the bumps on the toes.

I two have 5 Kenner Squids that have no sign of a sprue break what so ever, But... I do have one Squid Head that does have this break. It is the brown cape version. The plastic of this figure is a lot softer than the usual Kenner versions and the belt is a different plastic also, as well as the skirt is a much thicker material. The actual figure was bought with a Tri-Logo card a few years ago, the seller was selling loads of figures all with cards, so very possibly the cards they originally came with, and this figure has been referred to as a Tri-Logo/Euro figure before but I'm not sure. Here it is though.

cantina_patron wrote:

I've looked at my MIM Squid.

The head has a small sprue break (none of my 6 kenner ones has this feature).

...

As you have observed Patrick, the detail on the boots is not as defined as the Kenner examples. The bumps on the toes are different on mine, but they are there. None of my Kenner examples have this imperfection.

Sorry about the picture quality, but hopefully you can see the bumps on the toes.

...

Thanks Steve ... I like the results of your observations!     

General Kahn wrote:

I two have 5 Kenner Squids that have no sign of a sprue break what so ever, But... I do have one Squid Head that does have this break. It is the brown cape version. ...

And Alex ... I don't like yours!!!   

But I have to admit there seems to be a tiny sprue break on one (or maybe even two???   ) of my family I Squid Heads too. It seems I have overlooked this yesterday ...   


So, what necessary adjustments do we have till now?

1. I have to substitute the term EPM by sprue break.   
2. I have to edit that family I can have a sprue break on the top of the head too. But it is a tiny one compared to family II.

Do you agree gentlemen?

And the depression on the chest of family II, can anyone confirm this feature?

Heads are bad in general Patrick    Typically speaking though, it does appear to be pretty good, I've just checked another 5 beaters that I've used for customs and none of them have the sprue break.

I know what you mean Alex, heads can be swapped...   

However, to me it seems - at least till now - that family II has a significant sprue break and family I at most a smaller one if at all.

This is one of my family I Squid Heads that has a visible sprue break:





While writing this post I compared this Squid Head and Steve's MIM Squid Head ...  and I'm not sure anymore if there is really a difference in size between these sprue breaks ...    

pattejan wrote:

And the depression on the chest of family II, can anyone confirm this feature?

I've tried looking at my example in different lighting conditions and from different angles, unfortunately I can't see any notable depression on the chest between the creases.

Can others please dig out there Ledy Squids and help Patrick establish whether the depression on his example is a mould feature or a defect from casting?

Further confirmation that bumps on the toes are unique to Ledy Squids would also be good.  

cantina_patron wrote:

I've tried looking at my example in different lighting conditions and from different angles, unfortunately I can't see any notable depression on the chest between the creases.

What a bummer!   Thanks for looking Steve, much appreciated!  

Family II - Lili Ledy Squid Head #1





This figures has both the double bump on the left foot and sprue break on top of the head.

Family II - Lili Ledy Squid Head #2







Again this LL figure has the sprue break on the head and what looks like a knife cut??, However like Steve's example this too has a different bump pattern on the feet.





Reference pic's showing COO markings and red staining on the limbs so it looks like this figure once sported a flasher cape

Thanks for looking Stef!   


To summarise our Squid Head discoveries:

Family II (LL) has bumps on the feet and there are two different bump patterns. - Family I has no bumps on the feet.

Family II (LL) has a more or less distinct sprue break on top of the head.  - Family I has sometimes also a sprue break but mostly not.  :scratch: 

My family II (LL) Squid Head has a depression on the chest, whereas Steve's family II (LL) Squid Head hasn't this depression.    - Family I has no depression on the chest.


So help is still needed! Gentleman, please dig out your Squid Heads, have a look at them and post the results. Pics would be great. Thank you!  

I'll check the chests tomorrow if possible, I have 4 to work at

pattejan wrote:

So help is still needed! Gentleman, please dig out your Squid Heads, have a look at them and post the results. Pics would be great. Thank you!

Family I x 2, no depression on chest





Family II x 2, Lili Ledy with depression mark on chest





Family I, with sprue break on head   

Great work Pat on C-3PO   

Great work on Squid everybody. Can I just say that the chest depression may not be a good identifying feature as this is likely the result of casting, I have several figures with this, off the top of my head I definately have bespin Luke with this exact same depression on one figure. I'll dig out a pic when I get back online.

inside each figure is a rod and hole (not the best desription) rod on one side of the torso, hole on the other. The rod goes into the hole to hold the figure together for the sonic welding process. These depressions occur where these are.

Alex, I was just thinking about that. There called 'sink marks' which can happen around thicker areas, ie bosses!! where the plastic cools differently.

Quote :

Sink Marks  (^ Back to Top)
When the hot melt flows into the injection mold, the thick sections don’t cool as fast as the rest of the part because the thicker material becomes insulated by the outside surface of faster cooling plastic. As the inner core cools, it shrinks at a different rate than the already cooled outer skin. This difference on cooling rates causes the thick section to draw inward and create a sink mark on the outside surface of the part, or worse, completely warp the part. In addition to being unattractive, the mark also represents added stress that is built into the part. Other less conspicuous areas where sink occurs include ribs, bosses and corners. These are often overlooked because neither the feature nor the part itself is too thick; however, the intersection of the two can be a problem.

One way to avoid sink marks is to core out the solid sections of the part to reduce thick areas. If the strength of a solid part is required, try using cross hatched rib patterns inside the cored out area to increase strength and avoid sink. As a rule-of-thumb, make sure that all bosses and locating/support ribs are no more than 60% of the thickness of the nominal wall. Also, textures can be used to hide minor sink marks.

Agreed, I'd definately say casting error.

the boots are good to go though yes? Seems so and that's all you need, just one thing. Got to bear in mind most times your not gonna see the torso on Squid Head anyway or the top of the head.