Does anyone have a rough price guide what a DTS Luke goes for? Condition dependant i guess comes into it too.

Paul (leah's toys) sold 2 recently for around $150 & $200. Mine is better

Personally, I wouldn't pay over $150 for one. Unless of course it was absolutely dead mint!

That being said, I think you can find some good deals out there. I don't think $100 is out of the question on these sometimes.

Mint to C8 with a good saber is $250+ territory

C7 and lower $150-200

A bargain on ebay - $100 or lower

I think I would rather pay a little more from a bigger named seller than risk getting a bargain on ebay, having never
handled one personally I would feel safer buying from someone who had seen a few go through his hands over the years than
some unknown ebay seller.

Some people have been known to pay $130-160 just for a nice condition saber, probably the most important part of the Luke itself really.

I have heard a DT Luke should have a 3 line coo. My white text earlybird baggie Dt Luke has a 2 line coo. The bag does not appear to have been re-taped and the saber has a letter on the hilt and I can see 1 bread mark. Does anyone here have the same white text baggie Luke and if so does it have a 3 or 2 line coo? My loose DT Luke has 3 lines.

BILLIAM666 wrote:

I have heard a DT Luke should have a 3 line coo. My white text earlybird baggie Dt Luke has a 2 line coo. The bag does not appear to have been re-taped and the saber has a letter on the hilt and I can see 1 bread mark. Does anyone here have the same white text baggie Luke and if so does it have a 3 or 2 line coo? My loose DT Luke has 3 lines.

I believe I've read that both COOs can be correct. I'll see if I can find the discussion on that.



Actually, I mean yours is a fake, so send it to me instead.

Okay here is some reading. DT thread on RS

Just doing a quick skim it looks like both the 2 line and 3 line can be found with a DT Luke.

The bagged Dt Lukes (white text) i have only ever seen a 2 line coo.


Maybe the 3 line coo only came off card?

Thanks guys that makes me feel a lot better!!! I noticed the 2 lines on my Luke last night and got worried. On ebay I often read the auctions stating that the Luke they are selling comes with the correct 3 line coo.

Well here is the most recently completed auction:

DT Luke

That seems pretty high with all that paint loss.

LordGanja wrote:

That seems pretty high with all that paint loss.

That is what I was thinking! The baggie DTS Luke baggie I asked about cost me $240 a few years back.

BILLIAM666 wrote:

LordGanja wrote:

That seems pretty high with all that paint loss.

That is what I was thinking! The baggie DTS Luke baggie I asked about cost me $240 a few years back.

I'll gladly buy it off you for that price right now. Really with buying a DT luke it is more about the saber than the figure. It is very common to find some of the tip broken off on these and that one looked pretty good. It would be very easy to replace the Luke with a nice one very cheaply.

Agreed, i paid $150 for my loose Dt luke.
The figure wasn't great but the saber was very nice with no bits missing, which was the important bit.

Since my post count is low compared to others I'll re-state what everything already said

Yeah the saber carries most of the weight of the purchase. A ton of the ones I've seen are extremely wavy, broken off at the end, etc.. I good solid full length saber is still a rarity even if the figure as a whole is not. I've seen some DT Luke's go in that $125-$150 range but in undisplayable condition (saber-wise).

There was someone on R/S selling sabers alone a short while back and asking a pretty high price but they both sold because of the condition. The big advantage is that you can buy a minty Luke cheap if the seller doesnt have a saber for him.

Darthberizing wrote:

Since my post count is low compared to others I'll re-state what everything already said

Come on John, it is all about quality not quantity.

Post count just went up by one.

shawn_k wrote:

Darthberizing wrote:

Since my post count is low compared to others I'll re-state what everything already said

Come on John, it is all about quality not quantity.

Post count just went up by one.

Shawn - Thanks buddy! (Up by 2)

Need some help lads.

Picked this up from someone on RS, having been doing research and can't find much on the letter Y being on the hilt. The sabre also has a split in it. Have a look and see what you think.

Are you asking about it's legitimacy?

If so my personal opinion is it's good. The Luke could be a replacement (Correct COO but usually its the lighter pants color but I dont think anyone cares) but the saber has that classic stress bend , color looks good as well. The crack isn't great if you display it extended of course but IMHO I'd say legit 100%

Same here, looks good to me.

Thanks lads

OK guys noob question coming at you. Lets say in the very distant future I'm lucky enough to own a DT Luke- its acceptable to have a non-original figure as long as the sabers legit?

ctscanman68 wrote:

OK guys noob question coming at you. Lets say in the very distant future I'm lucky enough to own a DT Luke- its acceptable to have a non-original figure as long as the sabers legit?

As long as the COO is a correct 2 line or 3 line COO you should be okay. The one pictured above is the most accepted by far.

Darthberizing wrote:

ctscanman68 wrote:

OK guys noob question coming at you. Lets say in the very distant future I'm lucky enough to own a DT Luke- its acceptable to have a non-original figure as long as the sabers legit?

As long as the COO is a correct 2 line or 3 line COO you should be okay. The one pictured above is the most accepted by far.

Thanks for the info. Hopefully I'll remember that years from now when I can finally own one!
BTW thanks for helping me increase my meager post count too!

Lol that's funny I need an inner saber and it looks like you need a new outer saber